12/7/2023 0 Comments Pee patina brassIf you use laq don't just get the first one you see on the shelf at Halfords.shop around and ALWAYS do a test first on a carefully prepped piece of similar scrap. Remember that the silicone polishes such as 'Renaisance Wax' while they work well as specified can be virutally impossible to remove completely if you later wish to either laq or silver/gold plate and can really muck up the job! If you use laqueur be absolutely sure that you prep carefully and fully, so no fingerprints etc.don't use petrol as final wash.don't use brake cleaner either.Meths is as good as anything after hot detergent etc. I used to make brass nameplates, I offered 3 options ! A,polish from time to time, B, let it aquire a patina, or C laquer and be dammed ! Good Luck. B it is handled VERY carefully ! The polished surface offers no key, so the slightest knock and it will chip, then it WILL tarnish, looking worse than if it had NOT been laquered and the only solution will be to strip the laquer off, repolish, and decide whether laquering is a good idea ? Polished brass that has been laquered is fine so long as, A the laquer is a good one able to take the conditions. I hope the links are not breaking any rules It is this ONE I use you can buy it from HERE but how good this one is I have not tried it as the little tin I have seems to last for ages a little goes a long way I have used it on some of my woodturning and it does what it says on the tin. The correct stuff also prevents fingerprint when handled. Neither the ferrous nor non-ferrous parts have lost their finish since then, despite frequent handling. I used Rustins Metal Lacquer on a cannon I made about 15 years ago, which sits on the mantelpiece. Sixty years ago, any Brass bits we made at skool were polished and liberally coated with clear dope (Cellulose lacquer) A check on the web finds high temp clear lacquers to 800C in rattle-cans.īrass musical instruments are lacquered. There are guys on here with more practical experience, but at one stage I refurbished a saxophone - stripping it right down, cleaned up and polished and sprayed with clear lacquer - came out well and no polishing needed. It is apparently used by museums, but whether that it just advertising exaggeration or not, I cannot say. I did a lot of work with copper a few years ago and it was highly effective at delaying any tarnishing of the surface. This oil burn in in the cover and this is hard to remove.įrom me i accept to polish ,because I have fun to drive with the engine.īy the way your fire engine looks very good! By starting of the cold engine and if i am not patient enough there is condensend water with oil comming out of the chimney. And it is a hard job to get the dirt of espacially in the area of the chimney. In winter I take all off and then i can polish it. At the boiler there are many pipes and things installed, it is not feasable to polish there over the year. So I give all the steam parts a polishing and a control of function. At the moment I had my Fire King disassambled for the transport from the garage to the basement. The shiny surface of the brass is very difficult to hold over the year during the driving session. Then a vigorous application of elbow grease prior to driving it again. After polishing, I give the brass a coating of lanolin which seems to protect it for a while. You spend as much time cleaning and polishing the engine than you do driving it. Just one of the never ending jobs when you have a steam engine Bob. I has a protector wax and lasts quit a long time. This must be a common problem, so I was wondering what other members do, if there is a solution. But after a while they tarnish and lose their lustre. It’s packed to the brim with step-by-step guidance to achieving the look you’re going for in a way that’s safe, effective, and long-lasting.Spent many hours polishing the brass bits on my FK Fire Engine. Translucent Green-Blue Speckle Over Black with Silverįor the formulas to each of these patinas and hundreds of other surface effects, grab a copy of PATINA: 300+ Coloration Effects for Jewelers and Metalsmiths. Blue-Green and Golden Brown Stipple Over Brownġ0. Green Stipple with Silver-Gray Striations ON COPPERĦ. Translucent Green with Dark Green Texture ON STAINLESS STEELģ. Here is a sampling of the amazing green patinas that can be achieved on metal: ON STEELĢ. Author Matthew Runfola has devoted much of his career to surface effects on metal and shares a wealth of knowledge on the subject in his best-selling book, PATINA. Patrick’s Day, but I can’t resist! Shades of green can contrast beautifully with a variety of metals and really POP in a finished piece. I know, it’s a wee bit cliché to talk about green patinas around St.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |